Havoc F v5

This is the latest version of my flipper battlebot: Havoc F. I designed it in Onshape and 3D printed the chassis in two materials, TPU and PETG-CF on my Bambu Lab P1S. What's new:
The most important change is the scoop. It uses a sheet metal formed steel scoop that I had manufactured and hard coat anodized at JLCCNC. The quality and price of this was impressive and it makes the robot significantly more effective and durable. I got it manufactured here: https://jlccnc.com/?from=Oliver1
GitHub Repository: https://github.com/Oliver-Keegan/Havoc-F-v5

Here's the parts list:

• 4x Wheel Any rigid filament
• 1x Main Body - Any rigid filament
• 1x Top Plate - Any rigid filament, but for improved durability, use TPU
• 1x Lifter Arm - Any rigid filament
• 1x Lifter Joint
• 1x Scoop (I highly recommend getting it manufactured by a company like JLCCNC, its great value and the quality of the part I got was very impressive)
• 12x M2*6 screws
• 2x M2*12 screws
• 6x M2*4 screws
• 1x M1.4*6 screw
• 1x M2*25 screw
• 16x M2 brass heated inserts (significantly improves durability)
• 4x N10 or N20 brushed motors (RPM is up to you, use N10s to be more safely below 150g) https://shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/product/n10/
• 1x Malenki Nano https://shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/product/malenki/
• 1x 2S HV High Speed Metal Geared Servo https://shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/product/hsservo/
• 1x Aluminium servo horn https://shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/product/horn/
• 1x 2S LiPo battery (I recommend airsoft batteries as they are really compact)
• 1x SPDT Slide Switch
• 4x 16mm diameter O-rings

RECOMMENDED PRINT SETTINGS:

For all PETG-CF or rigid parts:
0.15mm layer height
20% gyroid infill
2 walls
2 top shell layers
5 bottom shell layers

For TPU or flexible parts:
0.28mm layer height
0% infill (makes it cushiony)
2 walls
5 top and bottom shell layers

Assembly:
1) Solder your electronics, using battery connectors if necessary, I just directly soldered the battery leads to a switch (leave unconnected to the switch until you put the top plate on) and the Malenki. Measure your wire lengths to be efficient with space. For the motors, solder both right side motors to the same pads, and the same with left side motors.
2) Slide the motors into their slots in the frame. be careful to put the right motors in the right places.
3) Screw the servo horn onto the servo, power it on first to make sure its at the 0° position.
4) Slide the servo into place, ensuring that the side with the wires protruding is closes to the rear of the robot.
5) Melt 12 brass heated inserts into the frame in every hole, use a soldering iron at around 220°C.
6) Put the O-rings onto the wheels and fit them onto the motor shafts, they have a slot so be careful to orient them correctly.
7) Use 7 M26 screws to secure the TPU armour onto the robot.
8) Press the heated inserts into the 4 holes on the lifting arm.
9) Use the M1.46 screw to connect the lifter joint to the 3rd hole from the end of the servo horn, the horn should be inside the gap of the lifter joint.
10) Connect the lifter joint to the lifting arm by screwing the M225 screw all the way through, with the lifting joint in the gap in the middle of the arm.
11) Screw the lifting arm onto the top plate using the two M212 screws, running them through the two bumps with holes on the top plate.
12) Solder the switch onto your power line, with the switch on the outside of the robot with screws holding it down from above, or on the inside with screws holding it from 13) below.
14) Screw on the top plate with 5 M26 screws, make sure the rectangular blocks underneath it slot into the motor slots for proper alignment.
15) Attach your scoop with the four M24 screws.
16) Bind your Malenki to your FLYSKY transmitter by pressing the bind button when you turn on the transmitter, and then switching the robot on and off quickly three times.
Done!