150g Flipper Battlebot
by emancarrillo
Printable files (16)
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step150G_FLIPPER_ASSY_001.STEP
2.7 Mo · 9 066 downloads
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stltop_plate_thick.STL
68 Ko · 5 953 downloads
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stltop_plate_thick_mirror.STL
69 Ko · 5 933 downloads
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stl
nail_spacer_long.STL
32 Ko · 8 722 downloads
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stlflipper_wedge_top.STL
60 Ko · 8 660 downloads
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stlflipper_lever.STL
55 Ko · 8 665 downloads
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stlnail_spacer_short.STL
40 Ko · 8 634 downloads
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stlflipper_arm.STL
124 Ko · 8 732 downloads
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stltop_cover.STL
116 Ko · 8 662 downloads
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stlflipper_wedge_bottom.STL
30 Ko · 8 629 downloads
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stlnail_spacer_long.STL
32 Ko · 8 589 downloads
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stl24mmlegohub.STL
131 Ko · 8 601 downloads
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stl150_flipper_base_001.STL
1005 Ko · 8 869 downloads
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stl24mmlegohub_tightfit.STL
131 Ko · 8 560 downloads
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stltop_plate_right.STL
50 Ko · 8 303 downloads
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stltop_plate_left.STL
58 Ko · 8 297 downloads
Description
Flipper Robot. This is a 150g combat robot. I'm attaching the .STEP file as well for those who want to edit.
Very simple build that doesn't require many extra tools. Wedges can be printed or cut out of a sturdy material. 0.5mm Titanium is ideal. But Plexi/Acrylic also work as well. Printed wedges work fine if you're just flipping things around the house. There are two styles of top plates also, flat plate version or thicker angled prints
Assembly tricks: I used a lighter and heated the nails when inserting them into the printed arms. This creates a tight fit and keeps them from backing out. Otherwise a drop of superglue keeps them in the arms. The holes in the body and the hole in the lifter linkage should a loose fit for the nails so they can rotate freely. The nail spacers are put on the nail to keep the servo linkage from moving too much laterally on the nail.
I use a paper clip to attach the flipper to the servo arm and cut off the excess after its bent.
The lego hub has tolerances to printed easily on my printer and be a snug fit, but attaching a tighter tolerance version incase you need it.
You can use #4 Plastite screws for everything (to save on buying parts). But I use #3 for the top brace and top panels and #4s to attach the wedges to the arms.
BOM:
Links here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1HqPwgTid8flR8bDFijHdza18m8T-cTUwRuQyM6YLlmM/edit#gid=1028422378
Hardware:
1qty 2" Brad Nail
2qty 3/4" or 1" Brad Nail
Small Zip Ties
Paper Clip
HotGlue/Superglue
4-20 Plastite Screws
3-24 Plastite Screws
Wheels: Lego 24x14 Tire
Electronics:
Flipper Servo: KST DS215MG V3
Here are other variations to look for that will also work. KST X12-508 or Corona DS929HV for a cheaper alternative.
Drive Motors: N20 Micro Gearmotor 30:1 or 1000rpm
ESC: Malenki Nano
Battery: Nano-tech 300mah 2S Lipo Pack
Note: Any micro servo will work, but you'll be limited on flipping power. For that reason, I prefer the servos linked above, but you can build with a cheaper servo to test first.
You can buy these wheels to save weight if needed. Although the lego wheels work great and are much cheaper
SC-2110p ProComp