Rusty (Battlebots)
por Scampi
Archivos imprimibles (15)
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stlChassis.STL
705 Ko · 134 descargas
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stlBowl.STL
281 Ko · 136 descargas
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stlTop_Shell.STL
26 Ko · 126 descargas
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stlCage_Left.STL
52 Ko · 128 descargas
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stlCage_Right.STL
52 Ko · 127 descargas
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stlWheel.STL
304 Ko · 137 descargas
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stlTread_Real.STL
80 Ko · 126 descargas
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stlSide_Panel.STL
388 Ko · 125 descargas
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stlBack_Panel.STL
94 Ko · 122 descargas
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stlArms.STL
27 Ko · 126 descargas
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stlArm_Base.STL
42 Ko · 127 descargas
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stlArm_Plate.STL
74 Ko · 128 descargas
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stlChisel_Mount.STL
8 Ko · 127 descargas
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stlChisel.STL
168 Ko · 126 descargas
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stlChisel_Ring.STL
19 Ko · 127 descargas
Descripción
It's Rusty! From Battlebots! Yes! I made this by looking at a ton of different photos of Rusty from as many angles as possible, and this helped me get most of the proportions and details right, I think. Ideally I'd spend an afternoon with Rusty and a tape measure to get it perfect.
I don't have time to really sort or organize this properly, so here's everything; the part files, the step files, and the stl files. This is more of a project than a ready-to-print model.
- The holes for the switch, nails, and LEDs might not match what you have on hand, so you may need to modify them.
- You will also probably need to do a bit of sanding on a lot of the parts to get them to fit right.
- For paint, I used Testors metallic silver and flat rust.
- The treads will need to be printed from a flexible filament like TPU.
- The hole on the back of Rusty is for a countersunk M3 screw, this was to make the back panel removable to unlock the top cover to get inside, but removing the bowl instead proved easier. If you want to glue the bowl on, keep the back panel removable, otherwise you can glue it on instead of using a screw.